« January 2007 | Main | March 2007 »

out of the loop...

Dear blog, we have become estranged. We don't talk, we don't write,...

I know, I've been soooo out of the loop. Actually this is the first time I have sat at a computer in over a week I reckon... can't even remember! And my phone died, and somewhere along the road I lost the charger, then found it again this morning so I haven't had that on for ages either.  But fear not. In case anyone out there even noticed I had gone away, I am still very much alive. Although I'm starting to feel as though my real life isn't real anymore - as though London is a far away land where people speak fast and move fast and drink fast and eat fast and sleep fast and all the time, on the other side of the world, there are people doing everything sooooooooo sloooooooooooowly.

Anyway, I'm in a 14 year old's bedroom at the moment (IT'S NOT WHAT YOU THINK!!) and he needs to go to bed so I'm going to go and... well,.... hit the hay I suppose. I'm coming home on Thursday, so I'll have to speed things up again. I've missed so much. Is anyone out there??

I miss you. (sniff)

two fat ladies and a mountain...

2fatladies

ice, ice and babies...

Mumandmountain
I really like Queenstown. I can appreciate that being the adventure capital of New Zealand it might not be the place for someone who finds her eyes fill with tears at the very mention of a bungy jump, but watching other people put their lives at risk is always fun.

The first night in QT was spent on the floor of a relative's place, as we couldn't for the life of us find anywhere to stay! Thank god we knew someone who lived there - the whole of the West Coast is fully booked thanks to February being the height of tourist season. We've booked the rest of our route now, but it was a close call!  As it was, it was pretty cool staying with Karen, who is the daughter of dad's cousin who we stayed with in New Plymouth. I'm not really sure what that makes her in relation to me, nor her two children, the adorable Riley, not even a year old, and Conner, an adventurous and exhausting four year old.  I never was very good with all that family tree stuff. I know mum is mum and dad is dad but when it comes to fiftieth cousin four times removed I really have no clue.

I've not spent much time around young children before. I guess I don't have any non-direct family in the UK and none of my friends have spawned yet either. In fact, the very idea of anyone close to me procreatingBexconner used to fill me with dread as, aside from the obvious duty to volunteer as a babysitter, a needy, whinging child would mean the end of our nights out drinking and talking about how we're so glad we don't have any needy, whinging children. Hmmm.  Well anyway, watching those two run and crawl around was quite fun, and so was joining in Conner's imaginary games. I forgot how kids have such great imaginations. He was in a world of his own - he was a space man, shark man, convinced there were monsters under the jetty in the harbour.  He was laughing two minutes after he was crying and couldn't even remember why. Kind of reminded me of the time I ate some magic mushrooms and ran around pulling my hair in a crowded room and spouting randomness to anyone who'd listen. I think that's the place you go back to when you do things like that as an adult - to the time when your imagination really knew no boundaries, and you could be equally confident that everything you witnessed was the truth.

It must be nice to be a kid somewhere like here - there's so much to inspire their thoughts.  They've got mountains in their back garden and paragliding tourists souring over their house. They've got gondola's swinging from giant lines up Bob's Peak (the mountain) and for Conner's birthday this week his dad's taking him on the luge at the top.  How different it must be to my own upbringing, where the most excitement that ever derived from my immediate surroundings in the caul-de-sac in Watford was when a tree fell over in the night during a storm.

We all went on the luge, which is basically a go kart down the mountain. I thought I'd give it a try as I kept seeing shrieking children zooming past and I thought, hey, how bad can it be?  I have to say though, it frightened the shit out of me. Ugh. Seriously, ever since I rammed mum's car into a lamppost whilst attempting to park,  two days after passing my (fourth) test, I've never been the most confident of drivers. I was convinced I was going to veer off the side of the mountain and spent most of the way down screamingFoxglacier and slamming on the breaks. Simon seemed to enjoy it though, he went down twice!

We managed to find that great apartment on the second night, (the one in the video) and spent two nights there. That was the one I didn't want to leave,... oh and we also had a fab meal in the Sofitel hotel, where Karen's husband Darren is Executive chef. Mmmmm Mmmm, so good. I had oysters in a light batter and then lamb.... awesome. I was stuffed until the next day at lunch time. In fact, I seem to be eating a lot over here. I wouldn't be surprised if my skinny jeans don't fit when I get home.  Time for another Cuppa Soup diet me-thinks.

Anyway, after Queenstown we drove up over the Crown Range - NZ's highest road, towards Wanaka, where we stayed in a place overlooking the bluest, most sparkly lake. It seemed like a nice place but we didn't hang round for long. We did have a another great meal though....  in another hotel.  I actually had a chilli venison salad, and a cheeseboard, obviously. Although, I have to say, NZ cheese ain't that great. Bring back the Dansh Blue, only 99p from Tesco. Stock up while you can - I'm coming home.

Back on the road again we drove past Lake Hawea, then up to Makarora - the national park, then over the Hillgondola Haast Pass where we stopped at the Fantail Falls, a cute little waterfall which unfortunately had most photo opportunities sabotaged by a group of old people who'd set up their picnic on the one piece of driftwood in front of it.  We had another quick stop at the Haast township, not much there really. I think there was a backpacker's hostel and a cafe - but there are lots of little places like that on the drive up the coast.  We keep seeing the same people actually, driving the same route as us. And as there's only one road up, there's no way we can lose all these camper vans, unfortunately!

Fox Glacier and Franz Joseph glaciers were pretty cool. We saw these from several viewpoints on our way here, at Hokitika holiday camp. (Heidi-hi!). For those who don't know,... (I didn't).... the glaciers are basically frozen rivers running down the sides of ancient mountains. Pretty incredible to look at, especially when you think the ice is millions of years old and you're standing there looking up at the snow in a t-shirt.

So, now we're at this holiday camp in Hokitika, which is a stone's throw from a gorgeous beach, filled with driftwood. We did however, get woken up at 7am by a builder banging together another holiday home next to our cabin.  That wasn't so great, but we've got to get back in the car again anyway. Our next stop is Motueka, through the Buller Gorge and Punakaiki, where we'll no doubt stop to ogle a while at the Pancake Rocks, complete with spouting blowholes. 

It's weird but I'm sort of getting used to seeing freaky natural wonders. And somehow, witnessing icy mountainside glaciers and rivers of crystal blue and signs advertising bungy jumping off clifftops is getting to be the norm. I can hardly believe that in just a few weeks I'll be back in London staring into my computer screen and wondering if this was all just a magical dream.

a little shoe trouble...

Here's Conner on our walk in Arrowtown a few days ago...

   

possum pie, anyone?

Possum Pukehura is a town with a population of two. TWO PEOPLE! They're husband and wife and they bake their world famous possum pies in a little cafe/gift shop type place on the road side. They've won awards for them at the annual Wild Foods festival, which sadly we'll miss as it's not happening till March. All kinds of things go on there, people eating grubs and spiders and cakes with all kinds of natural nastiness whipped up between the eggwhites - things that should probably be left well alone.

We got there a little late yesterday - they were closing up, so thankfully mum was unable to make the fateful possum purchase.  Dinner was saved, and spent instead in a lovely restaurant, where I had steak.  I know I wasn't doing the country any favours by eating a piece of cow.  Apparently the possum pies are so successful because possums are a pest, hunting out all the native wildlife, like Kiwi birds who can't fly away from this introduced species.  But cow tastes good, so whatever.

a puzzling world...

Dadpuzzleworld_1
I forgot to say, Wanaka had this awesome place called Puzzling World, a world that's full of... er... puzzles. We stopped in to take some silly photos and also to check out the illusion rooms, which were so weird! They had the obvious hologram stuff but even weirder was this room with sloping floors and snooker balls that roll upwards.... what a head f**k!  With no line of balance to remind you what level is real you can barely stand up, it's like being drunk, but worse....

   

home is where the apartment is...

OK, I know I've posted about a zillion blogs today - haha!! (I've been storing them up all week!) But, if you just look at one thing while you're here, look at our apartment. Oh man!!! I never wanna come home. I want to live in this apartment and wear pretty dresses and drink cocktails and look out over the lake and mountains of Queenstown forever. It really is goegeous here! We've got two nights in this place, after sleeping on the floor of our lovely friends round the corner last night because there were no hotels or motels available! Thank god we found one, and thank god again that it was this one! Check it out. It's so nice I don't even want to go to bed. I just want to sit and look at it all night, and pretend it's really mine...

   

catching rainbows...

Rainbow Yesterday's trip to Milford Sound most definitely lived up to the hype! It was B.E.A.UUUUUUUTIFUL, and thank God the weather cleared up 'coz when we left Invercargill that morning it was pissing it down and quite reluctantly, I had to pull my scarf out.  I had it with me as I wore it when I left my London flat about three hundred years ago and made my way to work with my suitcase. God... was that really only two weeks ago?

Milford Sound is basically a vast expanse of water in between a good few lumps of rock. To put it more romantically, this natural tourist trap known as the eighth wonder of the world raised its head above the ocean millions of years ago and beneath the water, the mountains reach hundreds of metres to the floor of the fjords. 

It's really interesting to learn thKiaat the bucket loads of rain water resting on top of the salt water create a weird kind of filter, blocking the light and fooling all kinds of wacky deep sea creatures into living at much shallower depths so we can all laugh at their twelve legs and flashing skin and probably, lose many a life at the mercy of their stings and poisons. We only saw a few penguins though.

The best part was cruising right up to a waterfall and watching the rainbows dancing in the spray as the water from the mountains bounced off the rocks.  On a rainy day apparently over 700 waterfalls spring up on the mountains and tumble down into the sounds in an even more impressive display than the one we saw when the skies were blue.  I'll have to visit again in a thunderstorm...

When we got back to the car we found about six Kia's wrecking havoc with everything in the vicinity. They're huge parrots with gorgeous green wings and orange feathers underneath, but they're greedy little shits. I guess, New Zealand's equivalent to pigeons?  Anyway, they landed on the car, jumped up and down, ate the windscreen wipers and when I opened the door, pecked my head and took a chunk out of the rubber liner.

I want one!!!

cliff pets...

I took this picture yesterday at Milford Sound and I swear I can see a dog there in the cliff face. Am I going mad, or is that a dog there??

Spotdog

baa baa bad sheep...

Sheep2 Talk about sheep shit - I got some serious shit from a sheep a few days ago when we stayed at a wicked B&B called Balmoral Farm, in the Catlins. His "pet" name was Babaganoosh and instead of being all cute and furry like the stuff of nursery rhymes, it decided to ram my leg and bleat most offensively in my direction. I didn't mind though, really. I didn't mind at all. You know what, I was actually thinking, hey, do what you like to me Mr Sheep, I'm just gonna love you anyway. I LOVE YOU! I love that you're here, and I'm here, and you smell like pooh in your stinky field of weeds, and I love that I'm on a farm and haven't had a shower and I'm wearing a most unfashionable jumper with a soy sauce stain on it, and I love that no one gives a crap. LOVE IT!

Balmoral was probably the best part of our trip so far - we arrived at this quiet little farm in the middle of nowhere and this baggy trousered, baggy jumpered, messy haired couple came out to meet us, complete with a bounding labrador.  I saw the look on Dad's face - he was thinking, "Oh Jesus Christ, hippies". He doesn't really like hippies, I don't think.  Well, he's into country rock and has really short hair and has never, ever worn any tie-dye, and even though he ran a mobile disco with mum in the 70's I don't think it really counted as hippy living, as they didn't operate out of a caravan or anything.

Anyway, Barry and Yanna invited us into their home, all smiles and open arms, and led us into a family room where they served us the most amazing organic dinner. Thai beef stir fry with creamy potatoes and homemade coleslaw, followed by homemade, organic peach and rhubarb crumble. They ate with us and we talked about everything, from how they met (over the Internet!) to Yanna's home in Alaska, to the plane Barry's building in the shed near the sheep field. It was really nice, but really weird,... how many B&B's are there where the hosts sit with you into the night, drinking wine and coffee and sharinSheepbex_1g their lives?  Most un-Englandy... but really nice.  I think Dad's opinion of them changed as the plane-building topic came up and they didn't start smoking pot or playing The Carpenters. Quite a relief for all of us actually.

The night before we actually stayed on another farm, where the hostess was equally lovely - Grants Farm, just outside of Dunedin. Only they left us to it really, aside from a nice morning chat over some criossants.  The next morning at Balmoral however, Yanna took us out on the quad bike to ride around the farm and she showed us her herb garden in their personal, private forest. Um,... I want one, I'm telling you. I will die unsatisfied if I die without my own private forest. They can grow anything in there. Anything - if you catch my drift.

Yanna's actually working on a book about New Zealand herbs. I thought, wow, maybe I could get a farm house and write books about herbs from the confines of my own private pine forest? Maybe I could be a farmer's wife, and learn to ride horses and wear lots of baggy clothes with pig drool all over them, and let my hair grow frizzy and tie it up with elastic bands and not even worry that I haven't shaved my legs for three months because I never go anywhere anyway, because I grow all my own food and seasonings, and milk my own cows who I've given individual names to, and convinced myself they love me back because no one else does. Except my handsome farmer husband, but that's all I need. He's all I want. Even though he hasn't shaved for three months either and his beard is long and thick and so full of hay and egg-whites that I can't really tell what's his hair and what's the remains of our organic farming lifestyle.

It was actually something I thought very seriously about. I'm serious! Well,... their house was so big and quiet, and they told me they hire WDogWOOFers, Willing Workers on Organic Farms. You help out on a choice of over 800 farms all over NZ in return for room, food and learning new skills. Hmm,... well it makes you think, doesn't it... why sit behind a desk all your life listening to corposhits whinging about figures and budgets and profits and losses, earning money for everyone else but yourself whilst ruining your eyesight and getting a fat arse? You could be cooking in a farmhouse kitchen, wearing baggy clothes and tying your hair up with elastic bands, listening to horses whinny and sheep baa and not even thinking about how much money you're making or losing because you have the sounds of nature all around you and that's enough to live on for a while as you wait for the chooks to lay the next eggy-tastic line of income?

Hmmmmm,...  maybe I'd discover writing copy for newsletters isn't what I want to do anyway, lovely as it it....  maybe baking muffins and making friends with pigs and driving tractors is far more "me". Who knows. Being on a farm would be great though, for a while at least, if only for a totally different experience and some good fodder for a book or something!  I know I'm a romantic, and I'd be lying if said some semi-naked, tractor driving, grass chewing young farmers weren't in there somewhere, glistening with sweat and running towards me crying "WE LOVE YOUR NEW ELASTIC BANDS, YOU'RE SO HOT WHEN YOU DON'T WASH!" but Barry and Yanna made it seem so appealing...